LUEDER is a London-based brand designed by Marie Lueder that explores masculinities whilst developing new functions for today’s survival in elevated ready-to-wear garments imagined as a type of mind armour.
LUEDER researches medieval armour based on the desire of shielding and longing for spiritualism acted as rituals using a variety of media in collaborative ways.
There is an imperative to embrace the idea of amateurism. That is to say regarding gender, bodies, professionalism, idols and emotions so one might be able to restructure and regenerate. Having trained as a Tailor in Germany and completing an MA in Menswear Fashion at the Royal College of Art in 2018, the LUEDER brand was launched with DiscoveryLab in 2020 and has since showcased 4 seasons at London Fashion Week. Lueder has also accomplished an accelerator programme with Cambridge University’s programme for Sustainable Leadership, worked with the Princess Trust, Fashion Revolution and is one of Browns Future Fashion Icons. Marie Lueder has also freelanced for Fashion brands and artists and works sporadically as a lecturer. She developed a perfume with IFF and Paul Guerlain and has shown at London Fashion week over previous seasons.
Hello Marie, welcome to RED•EYE World. Share with us a few highlights about your background related to fashion design. When was your first approach to it?
As a child I made costumes with my mother for this medieval kids LARP summer camp from the University of Hamburg. We researched the epoch and developed the look.
After getting trained as a tailor at the Hamburg state opera I studied first in Hamburg and then at the Royal college of Art in London.
Tell us more about how you explore masculinities for today’s survival in elevated RTW garments. Walk us through your design process a little bit. I am worried about masculine toxicity to manifest or return in the future, so what I use to explore is future feminist and caring. Due to my training as a tailor I want to develop the feeling of a well-fitted suit in my collections and in a Hoodie in the same way as a Suit through the way the seams touch. My collections have developed into a very unisex approach which I am excited by and we are on a collective route to produce the collection with sustainable materials.
What were the references or inspiration for your AW22 / The 4th Dimension?
The collection was highly influenced by the lock down and the desire to disappear into a surrealist world. We were very inspired by performance art, theatre and films in particular where the spaces and pace of reality were blurred.
How important is it to be open to creativity and to “ different “ nowadays?
Creativity is my capital and it is super important. But it can be a creative business idea as well as for social media or design. When you have a brand the business side becomes a new quest for creativity. Of course I wish I had more time to research! There is never enough.
What are some of the biggest challenges you are facing in the fashion industry?
The lack of governmental funds and preparation in University to be investment ready.
It feels like everybody makes money in the fashion industry besides the designers. That's of course changing when you are more established. It feels hard to survive the time when there is interest but the margins are not big enough to grow yet. But we are getting there! I am excited for 2023. It feels like a good year already. I prefer slow and steady growth to be honest. We are promoting season-less and reworking existing products as I showed in my LFW DIGITAL activation in 2021 in our collaboration with KBN knitwear. At the moment it feels like the Industry is back on unhealthy growth but I will try with Lueder to move in an organic way.
How do you see the future and how Web3 can improve the fashion industry in your opinion?
Web3 can make the fashion industry more inclusive by showing graduates work like Nick Nights SHOWstudio does.. so for decentralisation it's amazing, AI generated artworks and designs are scary in a way how genius they are and fun to use and I think the strength lies in collaboration and conversation of us humans so why not let them doing the labour. I am excited to develop new ideas. I want to use Blockchain for my business. I use QR codes already to make the product more transparent but could totally do more in that direction. NFTS .. I was close to it but not yet. I use CLO 3D for my design process but this doesn't feel so new anymore but definitely made it possible to style people on the other side of the world or just in Lock down in London.
A few words about SYNTHETIC FIRE, the Spring/Summer 2023 collection. Fire, fantasy, the desire to get out of the city but not being able to go. My collection is aiming to be a soft armour to support us all.
What’s your favourite project that you’ve worked on during your career?
The perfume I made together with Paul Guerlain @IFF Paris which I developed as part of a competition at my time. At the Royal College of Art. To be able to develop my own perfume and develop a language to describe it through images, videos, art, text, and conversation was a dream as it's so emotive. Paul is a genius and beautiful soul. He supported me along my way and supported me with more perfume for many performances/presentations I have done in the past three years.
One day you will be able to purchase it!
Other hobbies not related to fashion?
I love to go for runs in nature when I have time.
A letter to your future self. What would you write?
"Get a flat somewhere nice and warm when you are grown up”.
photographer Hendrik Schneider
stylist Tati Cotliar
hairstyler Benjamin David
makeup Grace Sinnott
set designer Tom Schneider
casting director Emma Matel
producer Andre Augusto
videographer Milo Thesiger-Meacham
Commentary by Counter statement Podcast
Portrait by Valeria Herklotz Snapshot portrait by unknown
interview by @mirawanderlust